culinary quest: chicken


My friend, the professional chef, gave me the stink eye last month at Taste on Melrose because I ordered the chicken. “How boring” she said, as she cut into her pork belly and truffle mac n cheese. “How typical, how so Jonathan Gold of you” I thought, and enjoyed every succulent bite of the garlic roasted breast and fingerling potatoes.

I don’t hate on chicken. I don’t think it’s boring and I don’t think it makes me boring. It’s lean, low fat, easy to season and marinate, and can be prepared in so many variations.

The Coq au Vin I had in Paris two years ago, I still dream about. Chicken kabobs – so tender, marinated perfectly- lapped up in some creamy hummus- I can eat it every day and probably be a happier person.

My most favorite thing about chicken is how easy it is to prepare. You can throw some raw chicken breast into a ziplock full of Italian dressing and poof! Instant marinade! Remember, chicken is just like black, you can dress it up or down and it goes with just about anything.

Whatever Bubba said you could do with shrimp, you can do with chicken: barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it. Creole, Gumbo, Pan fried, deep fried, stir-fried. There’s pineapple chicken, lemon chicken, coconut chicken, pepper chicken, chicken soup, chicken stew, chicken salad, chicken and potatoes, chicken burger, chicken sandwich.

So no, chicken is not “how boring”.

Anxieties about handling the raw meat or not cooking it through are typical, and easy as pie to overcome. So easy in fact, that we shall change that expression to “easy as chicken”.

Whole chickens with gizzards, livers and wobbly bits can be gross and intimidating- so lets keep it simple and talk about the breasts. Too easy… on we go.

Just touch the damn breasts. Be real – your hands have been exposed to textures far more revolting in your life, and you can rinse them under scolding water with bleach until you can sleep again. Just get it over with and you’ll never think about it again.

The more valid of the two fears is of under-cooked chicken, which can result in contaminating yourself or others.

Can you imagine trying to show off your skillz and instead end up poisoning your guests with salmonella? Oy. They would have every right to put you on blast over social networks and bathroom doors…IF they survive. Caution: If this ever happens, try to blame it on spinach. Tip: prepare a spinach side dish if this is your first chicken experience. Just looking out.

To avoid under cooking chicken, you can either use a thermometer (nerd) and cook until the center is 160 degrees or simply cut into it to ensure that it’s cooked through. If you see any pink, keep going. If it is white, it is done; that doesn’t mean leave it in for an extra three minutes just in case. Trust your instincts. I’d recommend cutting the raw chicken into tender-type strips- they cook faster and it’s easier to monitor their status.

I don’t mean to stereotype chicken. It doesn’t always have to be so healthy, though it is always delicious.

How to: Chicken Marsala

You will need:
1 cup AP flour
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
2 Tb. vegetable oil
2-1/2 oz. pancetta, sliced
8 oz. white mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. tomato paste
1-1/2 c. sweet Marsala
1-1/2 Tb. lemon juice
4. Tb. unsalted butter, softened
2 Tb. parsley, chopped

1. Prepare all of your ingredients by slicing the pancetta and mushrooms, mince your garlic, chop your parsley and measure out your tomato paste, flour, lemon juice, etc. Staying organized and good prep will change your life.

2. Start with your Marsala sauce as it takes much longer than the chicken. To do so, heat pan on low and add pancetta; saute, stir occasionally and scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen browned bits. Cook until pancetta is brown and crisp; about 4 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to a paper towel lined plate.

2. Add mushrooms to the same pan and increase heat to medium-high; saute, stirring occasionally, scraping pan bottom, until liquid released by mushrooms evaporates and the mushrooms begin to brown. Add a tablespoon of butter for additional flavor (optional).

2. Add garlic, tomato paste and cooked pancetta; saute while stirring until tomato paste begins to brown, about 1 minute.

3. Off heat, add Marsala, return pan to high heat and simmer vigorously, scraping brown bits from pan bottom. Cook until sauce is slightly syrupy and reduced to about 1-1/4 cups. This takes a while.


4. While your sauce is reducing, heat a heavy bottomed pan over medium high heat until very hot, about 3 minutes. Pat your chicken breasts dry. Place flour in a shallow baking dish or pie plate. Season both sides of the chicken cutlets with salt and pepper. Working one piece at a time, coat both sides with flour. Lift breast from tapered end and shake to remove excess flour, set aside.


5. Add oil to hot pan and heat until shimmering. Place floured cutlets in single layer in a pan and cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip cutlets and cook on second side until golden brown and meat feels firm when press with finger, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to a heated plate.

6. Off heat, add lemon juice and any accumulated juices from making your chicken to the Marsala; whisk in butter 1 tablespoon at a time to taste. Season with salt and pepper and stir in parsley.

7. Pour sauce over chicken and serve immediately.

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